Cordillera Real traverse (TTROYAL)

Arriving at the airport in La Paz your breath will be taken away. Not just because of the altitude; the airport is the highest international airport in the world; but also because of the views over the mountains. The crisp clear sky of the highlands give the impression you could touch them. In a normal winter day it is possible to see over a distance of 200Km (120mi). The cold and dry air feels good after so many hours of treated pressurized cabin air.

The drive to the city of La Paz is not less impressive. We will stop at “La Ceja” (literally the eyebrow in Spanish; but also meaning the edge) and have a view on the amazing city with buildings and houses hanging from the steep slopes and filling the whole valley that is surrounded by huge glaciated mountains.

Then we will descend 500m (1640ft) down to our hotel in downtown. Do not get stressed much about the altitude; our program has been designed to get you gradually acclimatized. At the beginning we strongly suggest you to take it very easy, drink plenty of water and eat lightly (get into out Acclimatization page for more information).

You will have the rest of the day free. At early evening we will have a briefing meeting.

Overnight: Hotel Nayra

An early start to make a short but pleasant drive along of the shores of Copacabana peninsula towards the village of Yampupata, there we will board the motor boat that will take us to the Island of the Sun. Today we will trek the whole length of the island admiring the Inca terraces, many of which are still used, passing through villages and walking along sandy beaches. Our objective is to reach the north-west end of the island where we can visit a sacred rock, which was worshipped as the birthplace of the first Incas: MancoKapac and Mama Okllo, son and daughter of Viracocha. We will also have time to visit the ruins of Chincana (the labyrinth). After lunch we will take our motor boat back to mainland and then our vehicle towards another Indian Village at the lake shores: Huatajata. The mountains will “grow” in front of us dominating the landscape and the glaciers will get “tanned” by the late afternoon light as we approach to our hotel.

Overnight: Hotel Inca Utama

Today’s route will also follow an easy terrain ascending gradually along the valley of Sorata towards the pass. On your way you will follow on and off llama paths traversing rolling hills covered with Andean grass called “Ichu”.

During today’s walk you will enjoy great views of the mountains: Jankouma, Wakana (6,200m/20,336ft), Kasiri (5,857m/19,211ft) and JankoPiti (5,725m/18,778ft), actually each one of them part of very complex groups of mountains; each one with its own valleys, glaciers and several peaks. To the west the views of the immensely open high lands of the “Altiplano” with Lake Titicaca in the background are overwhelming.

Our campsite will be located in a grassy spot in a valley leading towards the southern slopes of the mountains.

Overnight: Camping

Today we will ascent a steep but interesting route towards a spectacular viewpoint from where we can continue to the next – and higher - peak with even more spectacular views.

After a steep and fun descent we will get into a bizarre and beautiful colored hanging valley, and then down to the main valley where our campsite will be set in a grassy spot near a secondary road.

After arriving at the campsite, you can relax, do some laundry, read a book and enjoy the campsite, or - if you are still with energy – make a round trip to the upper part of the valley and visit the “Itapallu” garden (Cajophora canarinoides). Great views of new mountains: Calzada (5,650m/18,532ft), Chearoco (6,127m/20,101ft) and Chachacomani (6,074m/19,922ft); two of the six 6,000ers in Cordillera Real. 

Overnight: Camping

Probably one of the most demanding days of the trek since we will ascend to the highest point of the itinerary; definitely one of the most  extraordinary viewpoints in the whole Cordillera Real, seems that you can touch the glaciers of Chachacomani mountain with your hands. The last meters to the summit may be quite challenging but pretty safe scrambling. After a short stay at the summit, we will descent via steep moraines and scree slopes down to a hanging valley full of Alpacas and Llamas; disappointingly seems that at the end of the valley we will get immediately to our campsite but once you can see the campsite, there are still 600m to descend. After a long day this last steep section can be very tiring but interesting descending in the middle of big boulders, lots of bushes and boggy land. Once at the bottom of the valley we will hike to our campsite located near Chachacomani River; the lowest of the trip.

Overnight: Camping

Today we have a long day to ascend on very steep terrain following very secondary llama paths towards Pura Purani pass, then descending again off trail on steep scree down to the river banks of Jaillawaya river. The next section along the valley zigzagging its way downstream seems endless, especially when after a long way we have to climb about 200m up towards our campsite facing the peaks of the impressive Warawarani (5,542m/18,177ft). When crossing the upper parts of the route you will have great views of new mountains on the route, namely: Jisca Pata (5,508m/18,066ft), Janko Laya (5,545m/18,187ft), Janjo Uyu (5,512m/18,079ft).

Overnight: Camping

The route for the next days is part of the classic “Transcordillera” trek and the trails will mostly be wide and - after so many days walking off-trail - unusually bitten. Your day begins from Koatia gradually ascending towards the highest point of a ridge to then descent to the next valley and cover a long distance to the campsite at the shores of Alka Quota lagoon (the bi-color lagoon). To the east lies the Condoriri group – a major milestone in our journey.

Overnight: Camping

The climb up to today’s pass takes you between the rocky peaks of Cerro Ventanani and Janchallani (both 5,400m/17,712ft).  From the col you gain good views of the glaciers and snowfields of Ala Norte (5,532m/18,149ft) and Cabeza (head) de Condor (5,658m/18,530ft). 

These two taken together with Ala Sur (5,482m/17,985ft) form the famous view of the Condoriri group – from which it takes its name - best seen once you have descended from the pass to our camp beside ChiarKhota.  From here the mountains resemble a condor’s head flanked by outstretched wings.

Depending on time and conditions, it may be possible to deviate from the pass at the col and ascend Pico Austria.  An easy path zigzags its way up this rocky mountain to its summit, from which the views north encompass most of the mountains you have passed on your journey to date.  The path is distinct because it is often used by climbers who are looking to acclimatize before tackling the popular climbing peaks in the Condoriri group.

This evening you will camp by Laguna Chiar Kota and will probably share your campsite with others for the first and only time on this trip, for it is the base camp area for the climbing community.

Overnight: Camping