The Bears’ trail (TTMADIDI)

After breakfast we will take our transport and head north towards Lake Titicaca. Half of the way we will do our first hike in this small rocky range facing Cordillera Real. After the hike we will board our vehicle to get to the shores of the lake where we will stay in one of the best hotels in the area.

Traveling through this land it is easy to understand how important the shores of Lake Titicaca have been in the development of Andean cultures. Surrounded by desert like hills and snowcapped mountains, the lake offered, and still offers, rich lands and a mild climate. On the way to Copacabana, we will be culturally transferred to the past as we go by Aymara villages where Indians have been keeping their lifestyle for centuries.

Overnight: Hotel Rosario del lago

We normally think that driving almost all day long can be really boring, but driving to the valley of Pelechuco does not feel that long. The road follows the eastern shores of Lake Titicaca and afterwards gets into the rolling hills of Muñecas mountain range. As the rocks change colors and the lakes shown their colored waters, the car runs into the Ulla Ulla plateau, the largest Vicuña reserve in Bolivia. Thousands of wild animals run in front of glaciated peaks and colorful lakes. Finally the road passes in between the glaciated mountains and descends to the mining town of Aguas Blancas where we overnight in their lodge. The Lodge has nothing to do with last night’s four-star but is as charming as the town.

Overnight: Basic hostel

We are getting into the very high lands of the Apolobamba and from our campsite glaciers and the peaks will seem so close that one thinks about touching them. Do not be fooled, the air is so clean and thin that everything looks closer than it is. Today will be our “Test of fire” since; we have to cross the highest mountain pass a high pass with a glacier. First we will ascend over old moraines and through rocky galleys to the Chucuyo pass (also known as English pass). We have to cross a glacier that miners of “Flor de Nevada” gold mine used to traverse regularly using rubber boots!. Unfortunately, and due to the severe glacier receding that is happening in the whole Andes, this not an “easy” walk anymore. Although there is not technical climb involved, the glacier itself – especially the edges – are very icy and we will take the precaution of using crampons. Once on the other side will hike, following a secondary road, to our campsite located much lower into the valley of Lake Suches.

Overnight: Camping

The main characteristic of the western side of the range is that there is less vegetation; we will see more lakes and snow on the western slopes of the mountains since we will be hiking much higher and much closer to the glaciers. Since we will be hiking close to the mountains that face the Ulla Ulla plains, the trails are not as big and well-designed than those on the eastern side but the high mountain landscape is enough reward. Today, we will start our trek through the Bolivia’s biggest Vicuña reserve. After crossing a mountain pass, we will descent to the main road that leads us to Pelechuco several days ago. Our campsite will be located near the village of Kota Piquiña, the main economic activity in the area is Alpaca farming, animal that benefit local communities with the meat (delicious, low in fat and with high content of protein), leather and mainly wool. Certainly – while resting at the campsite - we will receive the visit of artisans who will try to sell us alpaca garments they knit and weave.

Overnight: Camping

Another day between the mountains and the highlands, after contouring a beautiful small lake dotted with numerous birds, we will cross to the other side of the valley and start ascending towards a rocky peak topping the ridge that divides two valleys. The views from this summit are just breathtaking, you can almost see the whole Apolobamba range like if you were on a plane. The bottom of the valleys – as usual – will be all dotted with hundreds of llamas, alpacas and Vicuñas herding on the river banks while rock and ice are the main elements when we look up to the mountains. We will camp in a flat grassy field for tonight.

Overnight: Camping

Today is quite a long journey since we do not only have to cross two mountain passes, but also cover a long distance to arrive to Curva town. Both mountain passes are not as high as the last’s days. We will keep walking along the lower slopes of Akamani, the sacred mountain of the Callawayas. After the second pass, we will descend to Canisaya valley; the head valley of Curva town; land of the Callawaya Indians. They are famous in the whole Andes Range because they are healers and Witch doctors. Their knowledge has been transmitted from father to son for centuries. It is said that they were the official doctors of the Inca Aristocracy. Our route will gradually leave the highlands to get us in their land and meet people living the same way as five hundred years ago. Depending of the distance we can make, we will either hike all the way to Curva or be picked-up by our car on Canisaya village.

Overnight: Basic hostel