Code: MEJUMA Duration: 5 days
Janko Uma in aymara literally means “white water”. It is not difficult to imagine the respect and devotion that this mountain must have produced in ancient cultures when they were farming its slopes more than two millennia ago (certainly the glaciers were much larger in those days). The image of a huge slow-motion cascade of white water turn into ice comes to the mind after hearing its name.
According to indigenous traditions gods dwelt in this mountain; a sort of Andean Olympus.
The massif formed by Illampu and Janko Uma mountains is not only the largest in Cordillera Real, but without any doubt one of the most majestic landscapes of the Bolivian Andes. Due to its remoteness and the trips length, it is seldom visited and one finds oneself alone on the mountain. This impressive mountain in Bolivia’s third highest. There are several routes to achieve the Summit from which we have chosen not only one of the easiest, but also the one that allows a more progressive acclimatization.
Please note that to take this trip alone, you must already be acclimatized to the highlands. This means that you must have spent at least 3-5 days at the highlands doing light physical activity. For more information about this subject, please refer to the page acclimatization at our website.
Short Itinerary
Day 1. Transport to trailhead. Trek to Chillata lagoon. Camp.
Day 2. Trek to Laguna Glaciar. Camp.
Day 3. Trek to high camp.
Day 4. Climb of Janko Uma. Return to high camp.
Day 5. Trek to Chillata lagoon. Transport to La Paz.
Highlights
- Great sightseeing of the highlands, Cordillera Real and Sorata valley.
- Spectacular route to Janko Uma 6,368m.
- Visit of "Laguna Glaciar" on the way to high camp.
Services Included
- Meals mentioned in the itinerary.
- Full land transportation during the trip.
- Common camping equipment: 3 season tents (one per each two people), dinning tent, kitchen stuff, and tableware.
- Common climbing equipment: ropes, carabiners, slings, snow stakes, ice screws.
- Professional bilingual UIAGM / IFMGA / IVBV certified mountain guide.
- Luggage transportation with porters and/or animals (15 kg/33 lb per person max weight).
- Cook when camping.
- National Park entrance fees.
Services Not Included
- Transfers IN/OUT to airports.
- International & local flight tickets & fees.
- Meals & hotels while in La Paz.
- Personal camping equipment: sleeping bag, mattress, headlamps, and clothing.
- Personal climbing equipment: plastic boots, crampons, harnesses, ice axe.
- Insurance of any kind.
- Any expense due to a rescue operation (rescuers fee, transportation, or medical cost).
Day to day details
Our vehicle will take us first over the “Altiplano” bordering Lake Titicaca, and then through the mountain valleys towards the valley of Sorata at the foot of the mythical mountain. After driving the last bit to the trailhead, we will start hiking to our campsite located at the shores of Chillata lagoon. Our trekking route will traverse the northern slopes of Janko Uma way above the fertile valley where locals grow corn, potato and barley among many other crops.
Overnight: Camping
La Paz: 3,650m (11,972ft)
Road pass: 4,212m (13,815ft)
Sorata valley: 2,661m (8,728ft)
Trailhead: 3,960m (12,989ft)
Chillata lagoon: 4,206m (13,795ft)
Driving: 4-5Hrs (144km)
Walking: 1-2Hrs (2km)
L,D
Although, there is not much elevation to gain, the route to the glacier is very steep and though rough terrain across granite slopes washed by ancient glaciers, so we will have the help of porters to carry our loads to the camps above. Unfortunately porters in the region are very difficult to find, therefore, we may need to climb our personal gear ourselves and let the porters carry the heavy loads.
Overnight: Camping
Laguna Glaciar: 5,049m (16,561ft)
Walking: 5-6Hrs (5.5km)
B,L,D
After breakfast we will leave campsite and start traversing through moraines to high camp, set next to the glacier. The rest of the day will be spending resting and re-charging our batteries for the grueling day that await us.
Overnight: Camping
High camp: 5,462m (17,915ft)
Walking: 3-4Hrs (2km)
B,L,D
After a light breakfast and way before the sunrise we leave campsite and enter onto the heavily crevassed glacier searching the route through seraks towards the northwest ridge that we will reach after climbing short sections on 45° to 50° ice. Once there, we still have to climb a long ridge leading to the summit. The reward after a long day will be the views from the summit; one of the most extraordinary landscapes in the Bolivian Andes. After a short time at the summit there we will start descending to the high camp where we will spend a second night.
Overnight: Camping
Janko Uma: 6,427m (21,080ft)
High camp: 5,462m (17,915ft)
Walking: 10-12Hrs (8km)
B.L.D
Together with the porters we will descent all the way to Chillata lagoon and from there to the trailhead. There our vehicles will be waiting to take us back to La Paz.
Overnight: None
Chillata lagoon: 4,206m (13,795ft)
Sorata valley: 2,678m (8,783ft)
Road pass: 4,212m (13,815ft)
La Paz: 3,650m (11,972ft)
Walking: 6-7Hrs (8.5km)
Driving: 4-5Hrs (144km)
B,L