Code: MSROYALB Duration: 6 days
This 6 day program has been designed for those who want to have a an introduction to mountaineering. The program has been designed to give you the very basic knowledge on the environment and the alpine techniques. At the end of the training, clients must attempt a self-organized climb, always with the close supervision of our instructors.
The mountains and glaciers at Janko Kota valley are a great school “campus” for our intensive instruction, starting from the same base camp we will train while we climb some peaks.
Short Itinerary
Day 1. Pick up at your hotel or stay. Transport to Janko Kota valley. Knots and rope techniques.
Day 2. Practice at Willa Llojeta Glacier. Camp.
Day 3. Practice at Mullu Apacheta Glacier. Camp.
Day 4. Practice at Vinohuara Valley. Camp.
Day 5. Practice at Culin Tojo. Camp.
Day 6. Climb of Janko Uyo. Return to La Paz.
Highlights
- Introduction to equipment
- Alpine camping
- Basic snow and ice techniques: crampons, ice axe and self arrest
- Map reading and Navigation on terrain
- Knots and Rope handling
- Rock climbing techniques
- Weather
Services Included
- Meals mentioned in the itinerary.
- Full land transportation during the trip.
- Common camping equipment: 3 season tents, dinning and kitchen tents & tableware.
- Common climbing equipment: ropes, carabiners, slings, snow stakes, ice screws.
- Professional bilingual UIAGM / IFMGA / IVBV certified mountain guide.
- Cook when camping.
Services Not Included
- International & local flight tickets & fees.
- Meals while in La Paz, Copacabana and other main cities.
- Personal camping equipment: sleeping bag, mattress, headlamps, and clothing.
- Personal climbing equipment: plastic boots, crampons, harnesses, ice axe.
- Insurance of any kind.
- Any expense due to a rescue operation (rescuers fee, transportation, or medical cost).
Day to day details
Early in the morning we will pick you up from your stay in La Paz. The vehicle will take us to Janko Kota Valley located in the middle of the Cordillera Real. We will camp on a beautiful grassy spot near to a crystalline river. We will set up the campsite for the following 5 nights. We will learn how to put up a camp. In the afternoon we will learn to make the basic knots and how to manouver with the ropes.
Overnight: Camping
La Paz: 3,650m (11,972ft)
Janko Kota: 4,690m (15,383ft)
Driving: 3 1/2 hours
L,D.
Today we will learn how to move on snow, how to use the crampons, the ice axe and how to self arrest. At the end of the practice we will climb the glacier of Wila LLojeta. By mid afternoon we will get back to Base Camp.
Wila Llojeta 5,244m (17,200ft)
Driving: 30 min
Walking: 6-7Hrs
B,L,D
Today´s instruction will take place at another glacier. We will learn and practice ice climbing techniques: crampons and ice axes. If time allows we will climb on of the Mullu Apacheta peaks.
Mullu Apacheta 5,300 m. (17,384 f.)
Driving: 30 min
Walking: 7-8Hrs
B,L,D
We will get inside a glacier valley circus to learn how to navigate between the morraines and the glaciers. We will practice map reading and the use of compass and gps and how to find the best way through the alpine terrain. If time allows we can climb one of the smaller peaks in the circus. Return to Base Camp.
High ridge 5, 340 m (17,515 f.)
Driving: 15 min.
Practice: 8-9Hrs
B,L,D
Today we will learn and practice on a different terrain. We will climb a rocky ridge and in the process learn how to scramble and the basic rock climbing techniques. We will also learn how to rappel down on ropes.
Culin Tojo: 5,368m (17,607 ft)
Driving: 30 min
Practice: 6-7Hrs
B,L,D
More than a practice day, we can consider today as a “fire test” for everybody. We will split the group in smaller climbing teams and each one will have to plan and solve the climb by themselves. The instructors will just supervise how climbers plan the route, choose and organize the equipment needed, discuss an emergency plan, and climb the mountain without direct help. Our route starts at Amawaya pass first through moraines and loose rocks, then up to the glacier towards our summit.
At mid afternoon we will return to Base Camp, break it down and return to La Paz.
Janko Uyu: 5,512m (18,079ft)
Driving: 4Hrs
Practice: 6-7Hrs
B,L
- Beginning of the acclimatization process.
- Personal equipment check.
- Walking over different types of terrain: soft soil, grass, loose stones, gravel, rock, sand (Parallel and crossed steps, Walking aids one or two walking sticks, Rest-step technique).
- Oxygen & energy management (breathing, rhythm, clothing, food).
- Walking on steep rock using feet and hands.
- Balance of the body, "three points" technique.
- Feet and hands position.
- Basic rock climbing, traversing.
- Basic knots and rope arts.
- Short rope technique.
- Use of harness and Tying up.
- Communication keywords.
- Plan and log the route.
- Navigation: Use of maps, Use of the compass, Use of the altimeter, Use of the GPS.
- Walking on ice with and without crampons, ice axe and walking poles.
- Self arrest.
- Ice axe techniques
- Rope management
- Vertical Ice climbing practice with top-rope (Ice axe traction technique with 1 and 2 tools)
- Summit climb. Practice of learned climbing skills.
- Rappel.